Plant guides

Calathea care guide

Light, water, humidity and toxicity for calathea, at a glance.

A healthy calathea orbifolia in a pale ceramic pot, its large round leaves fully open and marked with alternating silver and dark green stripes

Calatheas ask for two things most houseplants shrug off: humidity above 60%, and soil that never dries out fully and never stays soggy. Pot one in a peat- or coir-based mix loosened with perlite, in a pot that drains, and most of the fussiness people describe never shows up.

Water quality is the third thing. Minerals from the tap and from feeding collect in the pot and show up as browned leaf tips, so rainwater or distilled water pays off here. A carbon pitcher filter won't do the job, since those take out chlorine and not fluoride. Water from a household softener is worth ruling out entirely, since softeners work by adding sodium. Calatheas are prayer plants, so most of them fold their leaves up in the evening and open them again by morning. Calathea medallion is a common exception that mostly stays open. Nothing is wrong either way.

If you have cats or dogs, see the pet safety table for the full toxicity rundown.

Light

Bright, indirect light or partial shade. An east-facing window, or a few feet back from a brighter one, suits it. Direct sun scorches the leaves; too little light and the markings fade.

Water

Water when the top inch (2.5 cm) has dried but the mix below is still faintly damp. Never let the pot dry out completely, and never let it stand in water: it needs a drainage hole, and empty the saucer after watering. Check by finger every few days rather than on a fixed day, and let a little more of the surface dry in fall and winter. Rainwater or distilled water sidesteps the minerals that collect in the pot and brown the leaf tips. A carbon pitcher filter doesn't, since those are built for taste and chlorine rather than fluoride.

Humidity

Above 60%. Most heated or air-conditioned rooms sit well below that, so a room humidifier or a humid room does more than misting.

Temperature

65-75°F (18-24°C), kept steady, and not below 60°F (16°C). Avoid cold drafts, radiators and forced-air vents.

Fertilizing

Balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength once a month, spring through summer. Stop in winter. Flush the pot with plain water a few times a year if a white crust builds up on the soil or the rim.

Pruning

No shaping needed. Cut spent or fully browned leaves off at the base, and trim crisp edges if you want it tidier. Wipe dust off with a damp cloth now and then, supporting each leaf from underneath, since the foliage is thin and tears.

Toxicity to pets

Non-toxic to cats and dogs. Mild stomach upset is possible from any plant material, but there's no poisoning risk here.

Common questions

Is calathea the same plant as Goeppertia?

Yes. Botanists moved most calathea species into the genus Goeppertia after DNA work showed the old grouping didn't hold together, so a plant labeled Calathea orbifolia at the nursery is Goeppertia orbifolia in a botanical database. Nothing about the care changes, and the trade still uses calathea.

Why does my calathea have brown, crispy edges?

Dry air is the first thing to look at, and the one that makes the most difference. After that, minerals: fertilizer salts and whatever your tap carries build up in the pot over time, and calathea is among the plants named as fluoride-sensitive. Flushing the pot costs nothing and rules the second one out. Trimming the brown off improves the look, but fresh browning follows if the cause stays.

How do I propagate a calathea?

Divide it. Calatheas grow from rhizomes, so in late spring you can lift the plant, separate a clump with its own roots and shoots attached, and pot it up on its own. Division is the reliable route, since new shoots come from the rhizome. Dividing every couple of years also keeps an established plant vigorous. Otherwise repot in spring once roots fill the pot, going up one size only, because extra soil the roots can't reach just stays wet.

How big does a calathea get indoors?

It depends a lot on which one you have. Compact types like Calathea makoyana stay around 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) tall and 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) wide, genuinely a shelf plant. Calathea orbifolia gets bigger than people expect, reaching 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) tall with single leaves up to 12 inches (30 cm) across. Calathea zebrina can hit 3 feet (90 cm) tall and wide, which puts it on the floor rather than a table.

This guide was researched and written with AI assistance and reviewed by a human editor before publishing. How we use AI

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